Chianti Classico is not the only Chianti. Just ask Federico Giuntini Masseti of the estate Fattoria Selvapiana.

“In the wine world, the Chianti that is good and expensive for the consumer is the Chianti Classico,” he told me over lunch, as we sipped his exquisite and criminally underpriced single-vineyard Chianti Rufina called Vigneto Bucerchiale. “All the rest must be cheap, simple and you drink it when you are at university and you have no money.”

There was a sly smile at the corner of his lips, but I’m sure the perception problem he was describing is not entirely a laughing matter. […]

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